Toyota Tacoma 3.4 V6 Deckplate Mod

Written by: alexandro nieto (SD TACO) Edited By Matt Skrabanek (Matt)

The purpose of this modification is to allow an increase in air flow at a fraction of the cost of an aftermarket intake.This mod may be done to any Toyota Tacoma V6 or I4. The I4 air box may only be able to use a small sized deckplate due to the size of the air box. This mod allows for a less restrictive flow of air, meaning an increase in throttle response, an estimated 6-9 horsepower, and in some cases a reported increase in fuel economy. This has been said to be just as effective as buying a K&N, Airaid, or Injen intake for your vehicle. It is also to be said that it adds a noticable deeper tone to the intake as well as keep a cooler charge of air coming into the intake as compared to a typical "open" element intake system. On average, this will run you around 15-20 dollars depending upon price of items needed. For best results, the stock paper element should be replaced with an aftermarket air filter such as a K&N cotton with steel mesh replacement filter, or Amsoil foam filter. If you're thinking about purchasing an aftermarket intake, wouldn't you rather gamble 20 dollars? Or rather 200 plus and find out the results are similar?

What is a deckplate you ask? It is simply a small access hole used on boats that is consisted of a small outer ring, plugable with a screw-in type plate wich is usually sealed internally with a rubber o-ring. This item can be found at just about any boating marine parts shop, or home depot. I aquired mine from the local Wast Parts Marine shop. This allows for you to remove the plate for use in street or dry off-road conditions in which the air box may draw in extra air. The deckplate also allows you to close the hole in times where you may need to cross streams, or in heavy water conditions, where as an open element intake would have no protection, therefore possibly allowing water to penetrate the filter and thus enter the motor possibly causing damage. This modification will give you an alternative to a much safer, cost efficient, and effective manner to pull more power out of your motor.

Tools needed:

- metric sockets and ratchet set
- philips screwdrivers
- drill with various bits
- dremmel, to cut through roughly 1/4 inch thick plastic
- sharpie marking pen
- short file
- optional suitable cold beverage

Materials and items needed:

- 3-5 inch deckplate (3" is as big as you can fit on a 4-cyl)
- 3/4 inch long pan head screws
- matching nuts, (nylocks prefered) and washers
- 1 bottle of black RTV "sensor safe" silicone

Optional parts

- K&N replacement air filter part# 33-2054
- Amsoil replacement air filter part# TS-115
- Duct tape and or electrical tape (this will be used to cap off the
intake silencers)
(part#'s may vary upon year and engine model)

Estimated Involved time is around 1 hour.
(time may vary upon skill and comprehension)

Instructions:

After you have all your tools and items on hand, its time to get to work. First off, you'll need to remove the air box from the truck. There are 3 12mm bolts you must first remove. Next, comes the intake hose clamps next to the tube wich leads from the air box. Take the vacuum hose leading from the right hand side of the air box off. A pair of needle nose pliers will do it. Next, take the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor plug out by pressing the retaining clip, and harness. Once done, remove air box from the truck.

Next up, you will need to mark the area where the deckplate itself will go. Take the deckplate and center it on the front portion of the air box. Next, take a sharpie and trace out the hole size on the box itself as to have a template to cut the hole. Once done, make a pilot hole to start your cut.

Once the hole is cut, test fit the deckplate to make sure the hole is large enough to allow it to fit. If the edges obstruct the fit of the deckplate, use a file to grind down the edges further till it allows a good fit. Remember that it doesent have to be perfect, the deckplate will cover up any edge inperfections.

Next up, you will need to drill out the holes to run the screws through. Use the deckplate in place to use it as a template to drill the holes. Once drilled it is suggested, but not required to use a small bead of sensor safe black RTV silicone on the edge of the deckplate to secure a good seal. In my opinion this step is not necessary due to how well the deckplate sealed, in wich water would only seep through if the truck was entirely submersed in water (in which case you'll have much bigger issues then just that). After that step is made you may bolt in the deckplate against the surface of the air box and secure it down. Make sure you clean any and all debris from inside the air box from the cutting done earlier.

Here's what it should look like finished, with the deckplate removed.

Optional instructions:

If you wish to get a nice noticably louder rumble from your intake, you may remove your silencers to enchance the sound effect. There are 2 seperate silencers on the intake wich tame the intake air noise coming into the intake. One will be located in the lower section of the intake tube.

The second silencer will be located in the front face of the intake tube wich is clearely visible.

Disconnect the hose clamps wich retain these silencers to the intake. Once removed, take some tape and layer it across the hole on the silencers. make sure to secure the tape in a manner in wich it compleately covers the hole. Once capped off, reinstall the silencers in the opposite manner in wich you removed them. Secure the hose clamps back on snugly.

Now that the deckplate is in place and your silencers are capped off, you are ready to reinstall your modified air box into the truck. Place the air box back into position. Attach all hoses and vacuum lines back in place.